April 13, 2006

Tourist George: I will be spending a few days on Vancouver soon, and ask local monkeys for tips on the city.

I'm meeting a few acquiantances there that have got the hang of the place but am seeking for the not-so-known places that tourists *cough* never get to enjoy. Nice place to relax and drink? I love japanese food, what's your favorite place (is Tojo really that good)? Besides Stanley Park and the like, what places are there to hike and enjoy the scenery? Are those 'nature sightseeing' trips worth it? And who knows, maybe a meet up can be arranged...

  • South Granville, from the market under the bridge, onward to the gallery strip, for about 9 blocks.
  • You could always do the Grouse Grind for a hike. Queen Elizabeth park is lesser known than Stanley and equally as beautiful, perhaps more so. Visit Commercial Drive for that hidden hipster deep inside you. The Cambie is a great place to drink without relaxing if you like a loose atmosphere of unbridled socializing with all walks of life; however if you want to quaff a couple hemmingways in a remote afternoon feeling somewhat on the expensive side, the Granville Room is alright. Places tourists don't get to enjoy? Well, the downtown eastside (DTE) is the lowest property value in Canada. Watch people at the end of their rope try to score dope. Beware of walking accidentally into the DTE because it is situated directly next to Gastown which is arguably our tourist Mecca. No one (I include the residents) gets to enjoy the DTE until 2010 it seems. Hurrah for gentrification! Visit the Irish Heather in Gastown and ask for directions to their whiskey room, it's through the gated-off alleyway in the back, which serves as their patio. Don't go to Burnaby, there's nothing there but concrete. Likewise, most of the GVRD is only interesting in small pockets which require a longer stay to enjoy. Try to remain inside Vancouver proper. Kitsilano which people will understand as Kits if you're asking for directions (it's near UBC) has a lot of fine establishments and fairly good late night transit if you do decide to tie one on after visiting the UBC properties. If you like live music, the Railway Club always shows interesting acts that shy from the mainstream for a nominal cover and it's sort of easy to find from downtown. The Emily Carr Institute for Art and Design on Granville Island has a museum, and at this time of year, the concourse will be filled with students final projects. That'll be free should you find yourself in that tourist island. And if you do end up there, beware of Jack "the bear," you'll see a guy with shwackloads of buttons on, probably sitting on a lawn chair spewing endless diatribes about the social programs he's trying to tweak via his NPOs. I have nothing against the work he's doing, but he can argue non-stop and leach time like a mofo. Also, I think the current exhibit at the VAG is pretty noteworthy: brian Jungen, I've been meaning to see his exhibit, but school has been driving my schedule through the roof. Sometimes there are performances in front of the steps to the VAG, as well, which vary from interesting to shite. If you value your sanity, steer clear of Granville Entertainment bars such as the Roxy and Doolin's pub. They seem to have some sort of agreement with the fire marshall that they can crowd people end to end into the bar to maximize profit. I'd mention Wreck Beach, but this time of year isn't fashionable to saunter in the sand with your Flagpole in the breeze. Still, the UBC endowment lands are beautiful to walk around. I don't know about the nature sightseeing trips that you mention. There are a lot of trails in the GVRD that are fairly easy to follow, having a guide is nice if you don't know the territory, still I'd weigh the cost against the benefits when you consider that it isn't easy to get lost in the city parks (excluding Stanley if you walk off the path). If you decide to hit the westside, which I recomemend, the beaches are equally as good as the Kits to UBC beaches, and usually more occupied. Watch westcoast flakes transcendentally meditate the Seawall, stack rocks, and feast on granola. Also there are more nice establishments to visit for a bevvy afterward, for example the Brass Monkey for the trendy artiste environment to the downscale Comman next door with a subdued but genial environment (especially when there is a live performer). continued...
  • Stay away from Robson street unless you're a shopper. I have no idea why people think it's so fashionable to shop there, there are only a few stores which truly differ from the franchises and the pretense is through the roof. Hurrah for the the two kitty-corner Starbucks [stabs self in eyes]! There's lots to do, and there are a lot of 'touristy' things which many Vancouverites do regularly too. If you let me know when you're coming into town I look for a list of events during that time for you.
  • Vancouver? This guy needs zombies for his movie.
  • On preview, second what InsolentChimp says. Vancouver is great city for walking. In addition to the seawall around Stanley Park, there's also the seawall in West Van, Kitsilano - Jericho beaches and False Creek. Lots of great hiking on the North Shore. If you want a good hike, away from cars and crowds etc., try Capilano Canyon. You can either hike downhill from Cleveland Dam at the base of Grouse Mountain to Ambleside under the Lions Gate bridge or do it the other way around. Well maintained trails and a splendid walk in the rain forest. About 2 or 3 hours. Don't bother with the Capilano Suspension Bridge - kinda neat but major tourist trap. Check out Chinatown and the Dr.Sun Yat-Sen garden. Another good place for live music is, although it's at the south end of the Granville strip is the Yale, killer R&B. Next door, if you're so inclined is the Cecil, a nasty but fun peeler bar. Many good brew pubs abound. If a meetup is in the works I could be persuaded to leave the island, if the schedule allows. Have fun!
  • How could I forget the Yale? Also good for live R&B is the Fairview on Broadway (may be the best if the Yale closes its doors). The house band "Brickhouse" plays both, and they are definately worth it to see if you arrive on the weekend.
  • I third the Chimp, addding only that Tojo's apparently really *is* that great...tops the polls every year. And that the Brass Monkey is, sadly now defunct. Oh well...have a Vera Burger on Denman Street instead, and go across the street after for a cupcake from...Cupcakes. They are delightful and totally fey. If you do find yourself on Robson Street, Tsunami Sushi is pretty cool because their sushi travels around on dishes riding a chain of little wooden boats that encircles the sushi maker's counter. You grab yourself a ringside seat, and when something floats by that looks tasty you grab it. Not unlike a froggy purveying the local buggery. The waitress will later count the number of empty plates you have to give you your bill. Also, should you wish to surround yourself with heaps of luxe dark wood paneling and a stuffed elk head or two while watching sundry movie stars get loaded, go drink in the lounge at the Sutton Place Hotel. You could even see Samuel L. Motherfuckin' Jackson, given he's supposedly shooting something here.
  • Just the kind of input I was looking for. Thanks all. Yes, I like walking so there are several trips I'm planning to take. I'll be based on Granville St., so most of the places mentioned will be right up (& down) my alley. Shopping? Me? No, never... well, actually, is there some electronics place where the bait & switch isn't that obvious? And how about bookstores? The ones with the good deals, the best selection? Cupcakes? Mmh. I plan on gorging on maple syrup, also... Ah, I really like those places with the conveyor belts. Here's a nifty, no-budget music video set in such a place. Samuel L.... wait, maybe I'll get to see some muthafuckin' snakes! I arrive on the 18th but depending on my friends' plans I will have some free time from the 20th onwards. So watch this space for any meetup staging.
  • I meant these kind of tours. I was in Halifax some years ago and went on a whalewatching tour; all we saw was a big shark eating something (maybe some drowning tourist) and nothing else. Still, I'd like to experience some of that breathtaking scenery I've been told about : ) Correction: I arrive on the 16th.
  • Most of those tour things are a bit of a scam. It is extremely unlikely that you'll see a Orca in or near Vancouver harbour but the scenery can be grand. Same goes for salmon fishing, especially at this time of year. If you want to get out on the water, try Aquabus or you could rent a boat to cruise around the harbour on your own, weather permitting. You should be able to find skippered day charters at most marinas which would likely be more fun than the tourist boats or booze cruises. Of course, you could try these guys.
  • If you crave orcas, try a bit further south -- the viewing is excellent among the San Juan Islands. Over nearer Victoria used to be pretty good, too. This is still the off-season, but you should, as islander says, be able to charter a boat. And you'll want to fetch your passport along if you head south.
  • I was hoping to point you to a bookstore on Granville, Flagpole, but it seems I'm a few months too late... Duthie's up on 4th Ave. is still alive and well, though. and bees! Glad to hear that ye know these waters!
  • I plan on gorging on maple syrup, also tut-tuts from the side of the country that actually has sugar maples and whales*
  • I also like Japanese food ... Having never been to Tojos I can't comment, I subscribe to the theory that topping the polls != good, just well known. Fer christsakes, Milestones also tops the polls, but thats another topic entirely. Anyways, my fave sushi joint at the moment is Octopus Garden, in Kits. Sushi + walk on the beach, sweet. You should also check out izakaya - Japanese tapas - either Hapa Izakaya, for an all-black Yakuza vibe, or Guu in Gastown, the cocktails are insane. The food can be somewhat 'challenging'. Afterwards you might want to karaoke at Hollywood North, watch out for the hostesses!
  • I have to agree with the warnings about Robson st., but if you're staying on Granville you're probably going to wind up there at least once. Luckily, Hon's on Robson has some of the best Chinese food if you like that as well. There's also a Hon's in Chinatown but I don't find it as good. And if you're at all interested in architecture, stop by the Central branch of the public library. It's also within walking distance of Granville. Afterwards you'll be able to recognize it in movies as the local university, bank, FBI training grounds...
  • Forget Duthies, islander, you want to go to Pulp Fiction secondhand on Main street, Flagpole, there's another on Broadway in Kits. Best selection in town. Dunno about electronics, but there is a creepy store on B'way near Burrard that's called the "Spy Store" that has been in business for longer than I could justify what I'd think most people would be shopping for. By the way, shitloads of people are watching me, so for the real advice meet me at the usual place when the flag is flying in the flowerpot: read the daily news, Woodward. I agree with mj, Tsunami is the only good vibe on Robson. And gaddamn I haven't hit the west end in a while, Brass Monkey is gonzo? Is the Comman still there? I was sure I was there two onths ago, but that mighta been four. School is such a time leech. But I just finished the semester!
  • Actually, Brass Monkey's gone to heaven at least 8 or 9 months ago...it did sit closed for a while before being opened as something else, so you probably saw it in its 'why's all that mailed piled up on the floor in there, daddy?' state not realising it was dead. Also I say hooray! for Hon's on Robson. Best flat window ducks EVAR! Also home to "Chimps & Shrimps"; something I've referred to by it's silly made-up name so long, I can't remember what it's really called. It's basically big bashing shrimps in a clear gooey sauce, gravy style, over crispy noodles. Defuckingvine.
  • Ack, I ment I was at the Comman 4 months ago. I think... gads. That's what I thought I saw. Late (seeing as how the Comman has started to live down its open until eight in the morn, speakeasy feel, much like the Fringe has--why are we punishing the parties?). By the by, why is all that mail piled up in there, mj?
  • I was going to recommend Hon's for cheap fabulous Chinese, but I've been doubly beaten to that and everything else, and now I just miss home. (except: the Museum of Anthropology at UBC is a nice visit, close to Wreck and walks in the Endowment Lands, depending on your preference)
  • Hi, ilyadeux!
  • The sculptures by Bill Reid in the Museum of Anthro are great. Speaking of art, that Shadbolt on Georgia St. - it's one of the butterfly ones - (I think it's @ 1100 Georgia - next door to the south entrance to that underground mall by the Hyatt in the lobby of the building that looks like some sort of concrete bunker) is awesome.
  • [hi right back there, mct!]
  • Thanks again for all feedback. Lots of things to look up to in YVR...